a guidebook across the street in the Piazza de Ducale
Genova and study it over a cup of caffe ginseng at the Arte dell Caffee. But there's no useful information, not even a map. I ask the baristo, who points me in the general direction. On
my way out, I snap a shot of the infamous green door, and note the
numbering sequence on the street. Starting at 9, then 7, 17, 15, 5
(my door), a door with no number, another with no number, and another
7. I was looking for 5/10 and had no hope of finding it short of
reading the labels on the doorbells. Which is the only way I have
managed to find any of my hotels thus far. Fellow travelers take
It's a pleasant walk to the waterfront,
past a boat in drydock that is being pressure washed, past the
aquarium, and the Neptune, a replica of a 17th century
galleon that was used in Roman Polanski's 'Pirate' film. An open air tour bus is idling in front of the maritime office. The driver speaks enough English to direct me up the
street towards the Lanterna. I said I would be back for a tour, he
said to wait until after 1 PM because there is a labor strike today.
'”Fun for you” I said, and he laughed.
Less than 10 minutes down the street, I meet the rally head on. The Genoans refer to these as a “Public Manifestation.” The
Transportation Union strike has shut the ferries down, and a police
escort is clearing the street for about 200 marchers who follow the
beat of music blasting from huge stereo speakers stacked into the
back of a pick-up truck. An old man hands me a Communist newspaper
and indicates that I need to respond in cash, but I hand the paper
back to him. Someone else hands me a flyer, which I replicate here:
PER COMBATTERE LA DISUGUAGLIANZA SODCIALE, LA PRECARIETA, LA CRISI ECONOMICA PRODUCTTIVA Per difendere il diritto al lavoro e I diritti nel lavoro, per donne e uomini, cittadini italiana e migranti PER UN NUOVO MODELLO DI SVILUPPO CHE VALORIZI LA GIUSTIZIA SOCIALE, L'AMBIENTE I SAPERI E LA RICERCA PER UN FISCO CHE CONTRIBUISCA ALLA RIDISTRIBUZIONE DELLA RICCHEZZA: MENO TASSE A LAVORATORI E PENSIONATI, TASSARE LE RENDITE FINANZIARIE E GRANDI PATRIMONI Per uno stato sociale incluvio e fonte di ricchezza sociale PERDARE UNN FUTURO AI GIOVANI SENZA DIMENTICARE ANZIANI E MIGRANTI Per il diritto delle lavoratrici e dei lavoratori a votare piattaforme e accordi PERDIFENDERE LA DEMOCRAZIA E FONDAMENTALE VOTARESIAI REFERNDUM DEL 12 GIUGNO CONTRO IL NUCLEARE PER L'ACQUA BENE COMUNE
Past the rally and to my left, I spy my landmark.
The first sign describes the Lanterna Promenade (Passeggiata Panoramica) that marks the ancient road connecting Genoa to its Western neighbors, and following the walls that surround the city. The boardwalk leading up to the lighthouse is being coated with marine tar. A police car stopped behind me, and a dark haired cop asked if I am here to see the Lanterna. After a minute or two he seems to realize that I am a tourist, and after several more attempts, communicates to me that the lighthouse is the “Cymbol of Genova.” Our language barrier prevents further conversation which is really unfortunate. I hike up to the base of the lighthouse and go to the ticket office window.
But the Lanterna is closed! It is only open on weekends. No amount of pleading gains me access to the tower, but I am welcome to wander through the public park surrounding the base of the tower, and visit the museum. Reconciling myself to that fact, I take a seat on a bench at the base of the beacon, and eat a mid-day snack. I look over to my left to see that the officers that had stopped me earlier (no doubt wondering what I was doing there on a day the site was closed) were also finishing their break. As they get up to leave, I ask to take their picture.
The blond cop takes my camera, and without speaking, motions for me to stand with his partner so he can take our photo. The partner asks me where I am from, and when I say Seattle, he responds with “Ah, Rainy City.” “Yes,” I reply.
He then starts to lead me somewhere to show me something, and as I turn to retrieve my purse from the bench, his partner walks over to guard over it. The dark haired officer shows me the garden that lay below the foot of the Lanterna, and that I would have completely missed had he not pointed it to me. What a great interchange that was...and a great trade off for not being able to get inside. The 365 steps to the top of the lighthouse would have probably done me in anyway...
Genoa is another city where the building that houses the museum, is in itself a museum...the Lanterna Museum is in the fortified part of the base of the tower, which did not defend the lighthouse, but rather, the Porta Nuovo, the gate that marked the road leading from East to West. The first several rooms are nothing but benches and video screens, each screen depicting a different aspect of Ligurian arts and culture. The range of topics is broad, from modern port traffic, to medieval sculpture and paint, velvet weaving, processing fruit for confectionery, choir boys preparing for a church processional... this would be a really great place to spend a very hot afternoon.
Deeper inside this building I arrive in rooms filled with the several pieces of the lighthouse and walls covered with schematic drawings, many of which I photographed. You can see these photos here as well as those for the Aquarium which I visited later in the day.
I find my way down into the park. On the other side of the base there are more signs, including one that describes the houses in the distance that were the summer manors for Genoans during the 16th century. Having seen all there is to see, I take one last look at the 'Cymbol of Genova' before backtracking back to the tour bus. My feet, which are now both bruised and blistered, are fighting with the heavy cobblestone walkways and are ever so thankful to reach the boardwalk.
A short distance from the Lanterna is a shopping mall, where I hope to find a bookstore and a history of the Lanterna. But the bookstore is a fail, as is a shoe store where I had thought to find another pair of shoes. At the end of the mall is a COOP, one of the chain grocery stores in Italy. I see local apples, pears from Argentina, imported tomatoes, Valencia oranges, and red asparagus. Pomegranate juice is prevalent. It's weird seeing hard liquor on the shelf, the next aisle over from socks and underwear. Sale flyers were notably absent. I buy lunch... a very tasty spinach ricotta torte and some lemon-sized pears, which are crunchy but have virtually no flavor.
- In Firenze, you are not allowed to
handle produce, the green grocer does that for you. Here you pick up
a disposable glove and help yourself. You must also weigh and print
a barcode for every piece of produce before you go up to the check
out. I forgot to do this with a banana, and I was not allowed to buy
- I've never ridden a city tour bus before but I highly recommend them. It's a great way to get oriented and see things that may be too far get to to by foot. It's also a great way to rest your feet, and let someone else do the driving.
The narration over the headphones talks about the arcaded walkways, covered with arabesque archways (similar to Venice), and how Genova made very efficient use of the limited land they had between the sea and the mountain. We passed an opera house that was rebuilt after being destroyed during the bombings of WWII, and a row of delicate archways that is all that remains of a medieval Benedictine abbey. An ornate building that during the Renaissance functioned as Genova's stock exchange. An Arc de Triumph built by a prominent Communist architect, and beyond it, a garden dedicated to Christopher Columbus, with his three ships in 'bloom” on a terraced plot, though I later discover that the visual impact is lost when you actually walk in that park. The Oriental Market, laid out in concentric circles in an old convent. The Palace of Giants, marked on its corners by pairs of marble men supporting the buildings greco-roman columns on their shoulders. The Abbey of St. Steven, built from pink stone from Liguria, considered to be one of the most valuable building materials in Genova.
I notice several buildings with Juliet-style balconies, some in wrought iron but most in stone. A few buildings are decorated in elaborate trompe d'oile. A top floor apartment is flying a pirate flag from its corner terrace. The narration on the tour bus also mentions the trademark striped marble buildings as a main feature in Ligurian architecture. The train station decorated in Neo-Classic style but which dates to 1905. For additional photos of Genova please click here.
I hop off the tour bus and scurry to my next destination.
The Genoa Aquarium
Built for the Genoa Expo 1992, the aquarium houses 63 tanks in its 10,000 meter space, and is said to be the largest indoor aquarium in Europe. The first tank features a reconstruction of a 15th century pier in the harbor of Genova, considered the starting point for the voyage of Christoper Columbus and other prominent Genovan navigators.
I was struck by the intense landscaping of the tanks. Unlike the Seattle aquarium whose tanks are bare, these hold your attention even if there were no fish. Some of the coral is from the coastline along the Cinque Terra.
The penguin tank was a scream! I'm so glad I captured them on this video clip. The tank replicates the environment of the Falkland Islands and is inhabited by both Gentoo penguins from the Antarctic and Magellanics from the coast of Chile and Argentina. They buzzed the glass constantlhy and were very interactive with us.
I also watched a diver cleaning the tropical lagoon, where Cuba, a very playful sea turtle kept coming up to 'kiss' the diver's face mask and rub along the entire length of his body. Cuba is a rescued turtle who was discovered in 2000 in a box addressed to the aquarium, with a note that gave a birth date of August 1996 and that she had come from Cuba. Another rescued sea turtle is also here. Ari was smuggled into Italy by a tourist from the Maldives and later abandoned, and adopted by the Aquarium.
The Galata Museum of the Sea
I exit the aquarium and traverse the
boardwalk, past the farmer's market and Jamaican vendors selling
purses and sunglasses, past the Neptune galleon and on to the Museum of the Sea, which my dad would have really loved. It's a multistory
building housing 10,000 meters of exhibit space separated into 17
galleries, not including the submarine outside :) Additional photos of this museum are here.
The ground floor, housed in what looks
like another ancient building with low spreading curved ceilings
which shape the room like a Quonset hut, is themed The Age of
Oar. There are banks of armor, a reliquary containing some of the
ashes of Christopher Columbus, and a full scale replica of a seventeenth century galleon. The Age of Sail exhibit covered 2 floors and
includes a nice collection of globes and navigational instruments,
although the room is very dimly lit and it was difficult to get
The third floor was unexpectedly
fascinating. The Age of Steam walks you through rooms on
board a ship as a third-class passenger would have
experienced them, complete with engine noise and a view of the sea
out of the tiny porthole. Towards the end of this floor you are given
a 'passaporto' and immigration papers, and are taken through the
immigration process at Ellis Island. As an American, it was pretty eye opening to see this process from the side of an Italian immigrant. The passport is bar coded and
activates a video inspection officer which is apparently pretty
amusing judging by the reactions of the Italians in front of me. Yet
another reason to master Italian before visiting Italy...
After signing a release and checking my
bags into a locker, I put on the hair net and hardhat I am handed,
and board a reproduction of the N. Sauro, Italy's largest submarine.
Had I been aware of the pre-show, I would have learned how to use the
periscope and hydrophone. I should have opted for the free headset
which apparently also had additional instruction.
I did not have time to see more than half of this Maritime complex. But I'm happy to be adding "has been on a submarine" to my list of experiences : )
I opt out of dinner and return to my 'convent' room. I take off my shoes to
find that one of my blisters has a blister. I didn't think that was
physically possible... I'm really regretting not having packed another pair
of shoes for this overnight trip. I end the night with a bath, and
packing for an early day tomorrow to La Spezia.